Rock Hook Right-Angled “Special” L10 / 399

In our slovenian mountains and those of our neighbors, the limestone structure of the rock dominates. Unfortunately, it doesn’t offer many possibilities for the use of movable belays, so pitons driven into the rock cracks are mostly used for protection when climbing. The size and width of the cracks is different, so the pitons also vary in size and thickness accordingly.

Depending on their purpose, pitons are divided into safety and progression pitons:

• The safety pitons are longer and have a length of at least of 9-10 cm from the ear. We distinguish by the shape and design: universal, profile, diagonal, angular etc. The suitability and use of such pitons is indicated by the letter S engraved in the tool.
• Technical pitons are shorter and thinner, and mainly intended for use in technical climbing. Those pitons are engraved with the letter V.

Instruction for Use

The pitons are fixed protection elements intended for climbing activities in the mountains. Different shapes and thicknesses of pitons are suitable depending on the variety of cracks in the rocks into which the pitons are inserted (climbing technique). It is extremely important the quality of the rock where we want to insert the piton. First, tap around the crack with a hammer to determine whether the rock is solid; if it sounds hollow, then the crack is not healthy.

The orientation of the crack also affects the bearing capacity of the driven piton. If we have a choice, lateral cracks are much better than longitudinal ones.

Depending on the crack, we choose the appropriate thickness of the piton (image 1) and monitor the sound the piton emits when driving. With each hammer hit, this sound gets louder (we say the piton ‘sings’).

The strength and bearing capacity of a driven piton decreases with time. Repeated hammering and knocking out reduces its strength. Driving pitons into the rock depends on the experience of the climber.

There are many factors that determine whether an anchored piton will hold or not. Most common mistakes are:

• incorrect choice of the piton’s thickness and/or length:
  • the piton cannot be driven all the way into the rock (to the head) - piton is too thick or too long,
  • the piton is driven all the way into the the rock with weak force - piton is too short/thin for the crack,
• poor rock quality chosen,
  • driving the piton into the rock sounds hollow,
  • part of the rocks spalled,
  • the crack visibly enlarges.
• Direction of the crack: image 2 shows some examples of correct and incorrect hammered pitons (from the book Plezalna tehnika, Marjan Keršič – Belač). The technique of hammering pitons into the cracks has not changed over the years.

A good looking and designed piton doesn’t mean that it will hold: it has to be well driven into the crack!

NOTE: Climbing, mountaineering and caving are dangerous sports and may result in injuries or even death. Therefore, it is important that these sports are carried on only by persons acquainted with belaying techniques and methodology with adequate experiences.

The manufacturer bears no liability whatsoever for any risks and consequences arising in connection with incorrect use of these products. Unless you are able to bear these risks, do not carry on these sports. Only use the product in the depicted, uncrossed, ways. There are many ways of application and only some of them are designated as correct. Any other application is PROHIBITED.

If you do not understand the instructions for use sufficiently, please contact the vendor or directly the manufacturer MG Metal d.o.o.

Marking

Manufacturer's Logo

Length

Safety piton

Progression piton

• The S mark (safety pitons) means that the pitons have a sufficiently large bearing capacity and high strength and are thus suitable for anchoring.
• The V mark means that the piton is suitable for progression.

Pitons without marking(s) are intended exclusively for progression - technical climbing and are FORBIDDEN to be used for belaying.

It is forbidden to modify pitons in any way (thinning, shortening, etc.); in these cases, their strength is significantly reduced and may break.

Always inspect the condition of the piton before each use. Any visible damage may reduce its strength, so do never use such a piton any longer.

The service life of the product depends on wear and tear of the individual components. The actual service life is influenced by the frequency, intensity and manner of use, storage conditions, maintenance, etc. If the piton is worn out, deformed or otherwise damaged, scrap the piton and do not use it any further. Prevent further use of such a piton. After arresting a heavy fall, micro cracks may occur in the piton which are invisible with the naked eye and which significantly reduce the strength. Therefore, DO NEVER USE such a piton any longer!

WARRANTY: The warranty for production and material defects will be 3 years. This warranty shall not apply to normal wear and tear of the product and to failures and damage resulting from incorrect use, storage and wilful modifications of the product.

(Image source: Plezalna tehnika, Marjan Keršič - Belač)